What does Aloha mean anyway? How can it refresh our outlook, even when we're not in an ideal location or state of mind?
I visited the island of Oahu in May of 2018, and later based my 2019 Collection on colors of Hawaii. I chose Hibiscus Pink, Seafoam Green, Orchid Ombre, and Rainbow for my Aloha Tunics.The rich and vibrant colors in local flora and the ocean itself were an inspiration, and later wearing these colors reminded me of my stay. I wanted to share the feeling of Aloha in these clothes.
Being on the island and experiencing it's beauty is an easier way to understand the true meaning of Aloha.
I came upon the following description while reading a local Hawaiian newspaper. It will resonate with many of us in the yoga community. Uniting heart and mind and acting with compassion is what we are striving for with our practice along with toning our bodies.
"On a spiritual level, Aloha is an acknowledgement of the Divinity which dwells within and without us. It comes from the core, the roots of "alo", meaning "presence, front or face, and the "ha" meaning Divine breath, thereby combining the two means "the presence of the Divine Breath." *
It may not always be possible to take a vacation, but we can always take a breath and feel the Aloha.
*Abu Isa, Leina'ala. "The Aloha spirit of Hawai'i..." Ka WaiOla the Living Water of Oha [Honolulu] May 2018: p. 23
]]>Over the years I have accumulated a few books on the subject. My favorite, "Shibori - The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing" (Wada, Rice, Burton) gives this definition:
"Shibori is a Japanese word which comes from the word shiboru which means to "wring, squeeze, press". The verb root of the word emphasizes the action performed on the cloth, the process of manipulating fabric. It is the pliancy of the textile and its potential for creating a multitude of shape resisted designs that the Japanese concept of shibori recognizes and explores".
This piece from my sample book shows an example of miru shibori (stitched circle) in the middle with kanoku (bound dots) around the edges. If you have ever admired a tie-dyed likeness of Jerry Garcia it was likely done using a stitched technique.
Another interesting book, is a catalog from the Los Angeles County Museum exhibit "When Art Became Fashion - Kosode in Edo Period Japan" which chronicles the history of the kosode, a garment now referred to as a kimono.
The kosode was essentially a blank canvas used by textile artists of the time to create wearable pieces of art. Similar to the modern kimono made of silk, the kosode was originally a simple robe worn by the working class * made of bast fibers or "asa", usually hemp or ramie. Cotton was not grown in Japan until the 1600's.
This kimono,made of 55% hemp, 45% organic cotton, was dyed using tesuji shibori (hand pleating).In this example the entire garment is submerged in a dyebath. Variations in color are created by areas that are bound with string which causes the fabric to resist the dye.
Most stripe style tie dyed t shirts use this style. In contemporary tie dye a direct application of the dye using squeeze bottles is used to apply different colors.
I love the idea of festival clothing. During the Edo period in Japan everyone wore their best kosode to festivals honoring traditions like cherry blossom or maple leaf viewing, to celebrate the New Year, or to attend Kabuki Theatre.
Although elaborate painted silk kosode were worn by the elite, the working class developed their own street style influenced by Kabuki actors and courtesans. Fans who wanted to emulate their favorite actors decorated their own clothing by adapting those they had seen on the stage.
This Festival Jacket was dyed using the "crunch" technique, with a direct dye application. I could not find a shibori term for this method. It is an example of contemporary festival tie-dye. Use coupon code "TIEDYE" for 20% off.
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On the way to the hemp summits was the BMW with door panels composed of hemp fibre.
So many friendly people and fabulous booths, the vibe was awesome! What about medical cannabis? The NOCO Hemp Expo had no medical cannabis, everything here was industrial hemp, which means THC content under 3%.
Here is an example of industrial hemp fibre. It has many uses like fabric, yarns. paper, plastics. Did you know the US Constitution was written on hemp paper? (photo courtesy of Sunstrand)
Industrial Hemp, an ancient plant rediscovered
I created my first hemp clothing collection in 1999. It consisted of a women’s dress cut on the bias, and a girl’s dress, both made of 55% hemp, 45% cotton muslin. It was very exciting because at that time industrial hemp fabric had only recently become available for sale in the United States.
Today hemp fabric is combined with organic cotton, to create a soft jersey knit used for t shirts, with lycra for performance fabrics, and even recycled fabrics for durable and sustainable woven fabrics. As it has become more mainstream more of the benefits of industrial hemp are being discovered. It takes less water to grow than cotton, and less water to process. It can be grown without the use of pesticides, is antimicrobial, breathable, durable, machine washable and softens over time with each washing. Despite all these great qualities, a lot of negativity and misinformation persists.
Do some people (still) really believe that you can get high smoking a hemp t shirt?
Until the early 1900’s industrial hemp was a valuable crop used all over the world for its strong fiber and seeds. Today industrial hemp is being grown with federal approval in over 20 states in the US.
AGRICULTURAL ACT OF 2014 - President Obama signed the Agricultural Act of 2014 on February 7, 2014 including Section 7606 known as "Legitimacy of Industrial Hemp Research." Section 7606 defines industrial hemp (.3% or less THC) & authorizes institutions of higher education or state department's of agriculture in states that legalized hemp cultivation to conduct research and pilot programs.
In the 25 years I have been tie dying the best performing fabric for me is Hemp. I am proud to use it in all the garments for my 2016 Collection.
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